Dessert By Candy

Inspired by Lovescool’s NYC & LA dessert tours in addition to my own Paris and Tokyo dessert tour experiences, I decided to take a dessert tour in my hometown Toronto. I didn’t do any research ahead of time because I already have a long list of patisseries that I want to visit/revisit and their approximate locations. My only preparation was 55 minutes on the elliptical trainer before I headed out the door today.

Considering the size of the city, I’m a little surprise how most of the big names are all located in the Leaside neighbourhood. Armed with my handy TTC day pass and my exceptional walking speed (if you’ve walked with me, you would know exactly what I mean…just ask anyone who had the unfortunate experience of being my travel buddy), I started my journey at the Eglinton subway station.

Stop 1: Patisserie La Bamboche

4 Manor Road East, Toronto

(416) 481-6735

http://www.labamboche.com

This latest addition to the Toronto patisserie scene actually has its roots in Japan. Already with three locations in Tokyo, Chef Manaka brought us his classically French cakes and pastries in a location just off the beaten track. The Japanese influence is subtle but unmistakable. On the left side of the store, there’s a table lined with gorgeously designed gift boxes ready to be filled with madeleines, financiers, sables, tiny loaves of pound cakes, and many others. Although these cookies and simple cakes are staples of many patisseries, the practice of packaging them into a giftset is something that is very popular in Japan. Inside the display case, all of the gateaux and tartes look immaculate. According to the staff, the Paquet (combination of chocolate and apple) is one of the signature piece of Chef Manaka. I was very tempted to try it but as luck would have it, they did not have it in individual portion today. Instead, I had a Chocolat Mont Blanc which is also another specialty of the store. Mont Blanc is one of my favourite gateaux although it is rarely available in Toronto. La Bamboche’s version has a soft cookie base (with tiny chunks of chocolate), Chantilly cream, pieces of marrons glaces, and vermicelli of creme de marron. Much of the centre was occupied by the marrons glaces (which I adore) at the expense of the creme Chantilly. The balance of sweetness was just right but texture-wise, it fell a little short. Since both creme de marron and marrons glaces are dense, an ideal Mont Blanc really needs the creme Chantilly to add some lightness and a meringue or dacquoise base to add crunch for textural contrast. Unfortunately, I think this version did not have the lightness nor crunch that makes Mont Blanc intriguing. That being said, I will come back to try their other selections in the near future.

Stop 2: Fleurdelys Patisserie

2046 Yonge Street, Toronto

(416) 545-0509

http://www.fleurdelyspatisserie.com

Just a stone throw away from La Bamboche is my old favourite Fleurdelys. It’s been a long time since my last visit and much of the gateaux and tartes selection remains the same. What’s new to me was that they now have granola, candied ginger, almond bark, and many more cookies available. Although I like their viennoisserie, I want to focus on pastries today so I chose an individual size Castel instead. This gateau has a thin base of almond chocolate dacquoise, a thick layer of chocolate mousse, dusted with cocoa powder and garnished with pieces of dacquoise. I’m sad to say that it was very disappointing. The dacquoise was so thin it was merely a vehicle to prop up the chocolate mousse. Now, it wouldn’t be a bad thing if I’m blown away by the mousse. Although the mousse is smooth and packed with chocolate, it was rather gummy. I think the Castel is too one-dimensional.

Le Comptoir de Celestin

623 Mount Pleasant Road, Toronto

(416) 544-1733

I’ve heard about Celestin for a long time (mainly how very French it is) but it is mostly raves on its bread and viennoisserie. I was surprise to find a large selection of pastries the minute I stepped into the tiny store. My first impression? This place is bustling with a continuous stream of regular customers! It really felt like one of those neighbourhood patisseries in Paris. The staff were extremely helpful and patient with my many inquires. Since I had many stops to make, I was going to limit myself to one piece of pastry per store. However, the selections at Celestin made it difficult for me to keep my resolution. I walked out of the store with a piece of L’Alliance, a slice of Tartelette Bourdaloue, a baguette to take home and I had an impromptu picnic on the bench outside of the store. The Tartelette Bourdaloue has a thin pate sucre crust and a filling of frangipane, apricots, and almond slivers. This is a rustic dessert yet the tartness of the apricot tasted so good with frangipane and the tender crust. The L’Alliance has layers of coconut dacquoise, strawberry mousse, raspberry jam, and white chocolate mousse. The flavour combination is excellent. The aroma of coconut is perfectly offset by the tartness of the raspberry and the fruity sweetness of the strawberry. The white chocolate mousse added another dimension of richness. By the time I finished my picnic, I was very tempted to purchase a few more pieces to sample at home. According to their menu, Celestin offers macarons in the following flavours: coffee, chocolate, raspberry, vanilla, pistachio, and almond. Being the francophile that I am, I’m ecstatic to discover places that make macarons in Toronto!

Stop 4: Rahier Patisserie

1586 Bayview Avenue, Toronto

(416) 482-0917

The store was closed when I arrived. I will come back on my next walking tour.

(to be continue…)

Technorati: pastry walking tour, Toronto

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